Pascal Barbot sets an example to younger generations for all he has managed to achieve at such a young age. After working as a sous-chef for Alain Passard for example, he and his business partner, Christophe Rohat, opened their own restaurant. Seven years later, he was honoured with the ultimate award: three Michelin stars. He moves at a speed of 200 km/h, and everything has to be 100% perfect! Should you be interested in visiting Pascal’s restaurant, you will have to wait a year! His secret? “Cook for yourself, and then for the vibes you get from your customers. Then look for the best suppliers. Everything has to be top notch, and that goes for veal too. White veal goes very well with shellfish, the rib is the ideal kind of meat for the perfect Maillard reaction and I can use the sweetbreads all year round. One of my favourites is an ultra-fresh veal kidney, whilst at home, I like to eat the hangar steak. Finally then, veal is a meat that combines very nicely with wine.”
Trim kidney fat, leaving 2cm of fat all the way around. Braise the kidney in its own fat for 30 minutes without discolouring, and turn regularly. Allow to rest for at least another 30 minutes. Strain the accumulated liquid and thicken the juice with sumac, pepper and salt before serving. For the garlic juice, grate the garlic and press through a fine-mesh sieve. Blanch the Brussels sprouts, glaze in some butter with the veal stock and season to taste with the garlic juice. Cut cylinders out of bread, roll out thinly and fry in clarified butter until golden brown. Glaze the kidney in its own jus for a few minutes. Divide into portions and serve with vegetables and the bread. Drizzle some sauce on the side.
Rinse the sweetbreads in ice water. Blanch for 6 minutes in salted water and then immerse directly in ice water. Drain well, dry and dip in flour. Pan-fry the sweetbreads all over (20 minutes) in clarified butter; add some fresh butter and glaze with some veal jus. For the miso, prepare a beurre noisette of fresh butter and rosemary. Pass through a sieve and leave to cool. Dry the miso carefully in a non-stick pan for 20 minutes on the edge of the stove and leave to cool. Boil the eggs for 9 minutes and rub through a tamis. Mix the miso and the eggs until smooth, bind it using the beurre noisette and season to taste with garlic, ginger and lemon juice. If desired, add some hazelnut oil, then pour into a piping bag. Cut into the chestnuts and place them in a very hot oven for 3 minutes. Peel them and cut into very thin slices using a mandoline. Caramelise the slices in the orange juice and the honey. Glaze the cabbage leaves in sizzling butter and season to taste with shiso. Arrange the different items as shown in the picture.
2 nuggets of veal sweetbreads, flour, clarified butter, fresh butter, 100ml veal jus, 50ml black sesame oil, 8 leaves of Vietnamese cabbage, young red cabbage, shiso purple cress, chive flowers.
For the white miso
250g white miso, 250g butter, 2 sprigs rosemary, 4 eggs, 50ml lemon juice, 50ml garlic juice, 50ml ginger juice, hazelnut oil.
For the caramelised chestnuts
8 chestnuts, 2 dstspn orange juice, 1 dstspn acacia honey, fleur de sel, freshly-ground pepper.
Rinse the razor clams in cold running water for 30 minutes. Vacuum pack and cook sous vide for 20 minutes in a warm water bath at 52°C/125°F. Take the meat out of the shells, rinse and cut into small diagonal slices. Wash the empty shells and set aside. Cut the veal into small 1x1cm cubes, roll in the shellfish oil and set aside. Slice the shallots into rings, dip in tapioca flour, shake off the excess flour and deep-fry at 140°C/285°F. Drain on a paper towel and season with salt. Mix the ingredients for the emulsion. Once emulsified, put it to one side. Season the veal and the razor clams with salt and pepper and fill the shells with the shallots and the emulsion. Finish with the herbs and baby leaves.