It would be unimaginable to think of Paris without bistros, as it would Lyon without its bouchons (the local name for bistro), and when talking about bouchons, the first name that alsways springs to mind is Joseph Viola. This Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOV or Best Craftsman of France) left his star-lit Paris behind him to start cooking more traditionally. His goal is simple: to reinstate genuine cooking; cooking that respects the ingredients, at reasonable prices. This philosophy focuses on the produce, which applies just as much to veal as it does any other: “Veal is noble and silky, whilst being difficult to handle at the same time. It is fragile and demands a chef’s attention which means you really have to learn how to work with it. Look how beautiful a fond can become with just a few bones! And veal can be combined with so much: from butter to oil, anchovies to pickled lemon and from mushrooms to vanilla. That’s what makes it so unique!”
Grind the neck of pork and the veal topside through a meat grinder using a 5-mm plate. Fry each of them in some olive oil and leave to drain. Fry the different wild mushrooms with the garlic and the shallots and put some to one side for the garnish. Grind the wild mushrooms through the same plate of the meat grinder. Finely chop the chicken liver and blanch the sweetbreads. Mix the finely-ground meat and the mushrooms, egg, chicken livers and chopped parsley together. Season to taste with salt and pepper if necessary. Roll the pastry out thinly and line the terrine mould with it. Spread some of the stuffing on the bottom. Put the frozen duck liver on top, then spread another thin layer of stuffing on it and put the sweetbreads in over the top. Finish the terrine with the rest of the stuffing, cover with dough, brush with loosely-whisked egg yolk and pierce 3 holes in the dough. Bake the paté in the oven at 220°C/430°F for 45 minutes and cool for at least 24 hours. Pour in the jelly and allow to set again, then slice. Season with fleur de sel and serve with a salad with a balsamic vinegar and nut oil dressing.
150g veal sweetbreads, 350g pork neck, 225g veal topside, 1 dstspn breadcrumbs, 100g chicken livers, 1 dstspn chopped shallots, 1 dstspn chopped parsley, 1/2 tsp garlic, 1 sprig thyme, 1 dstspn dried and soaked trompettes de la mort mushrooms, 1 dstspn dried and soaked penny bun mushrooms, 50g white mushrooms, 1 egg, 175g frozen duck liver escalopes, 75g mixed salad leaves, 100ml nut oil, 120g fruit chutney, balsamic vinegar, 500ml veal jelly, hot water crust pastry.
Season the kidneys with salt and pepper. Put some oil in a casserole dish and brown the kidneys on all sides. Cook on a low heat for 8 minutes then take them out of the pan. Fry the onions, mushrooms and lardons in a knob of butter and deglaze with the Madeira. Reduce the liquid and add the veal jus. Reduce for another 10 minutes then season to taste. Heat the kidneys in the sauce for another 4 minutes and add the parsley. Serve the casserole at the table and carve the meat in front of your guests.
Season the ribs with salt and pepper and sear well in the oil. Add the butter, baste regularly and roast in the oven at 180°C/355o until cooked to the desired level. Leave the meat to rest on a rack. Tip off the excess fat and deglaze with the white wine. Add the veal jus and reduce. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve and season to taste. Clean or wash the wild mushrooms and pat dry. Pan-fry in the oil until golden brown and season with the chopped garlic, salt and pepper. Add the butter, cook just a little longer before adding the chopped parsley. Slice the meat and serve with the mushrooms and a generous amount of the reduced jus.