This restaurant is only 38 m² (410ft²), including the kitchen! It has the New-York look and guests are invited to sit at one large table. Chef David Toutain landed in the French capital like a UFO. He is the biggest revelation of 2013 and has created an incredible reputation for himself. We asked David what he is trying to achieve: “The idea behind the restaurant is playing with the products, and giving them a very personal touch. Especially in the evening when I bring out my Carte Blanche menu. This consists of 14 to 16 courses, which changes depending entirely on our mood and the produce that comes in that day. I prefer to make all kinds of different things so that the people sitting next to one another are never served the same dish. This is great for stimulating conversation.” When we talking to David about veal, he says: “You will see veal on my menus quite frequently. I had veal sweetbreads with white chocolate and lemon balm on there not that long ago. It might sound strange, but it was a great success. A combination of salty and sour to break up the sweetness, and the lemon balm to counterbalance the fattiness of the sweetbreads. It was a fantastic combination.” Another similar dish: veal brains with cheese. “I was given some veal brains by my supplier and I found some beautiful chard at the market. Then almost simultaneously, I received a call from Anthony, a cheesemaker who had just had some beautiful Stilton come in. And that was that! I had to fine-
For the sauce, finely chop the onion and the garlic. Heat with the milk and cover with parchment. Then simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Pour into a bowl, adding the Stilton, the dissolved gelatin and the mustard greens. Mix together and strain through a sieve and leave the sauce to cool on ice cubes. Pour into a siphon; attach two canisters and keep at room temperature. Keep the veal brains in ice-cold water overnight. Drain and dry well. Dip in flour and sauté quickly in oil. As soon as they start to colour, add salted butter and cook for 5 minutes until done. Wash the chard and keep in ice-cold water for 80 minutes. Strain and chill. Remove the stems and put these in the gastrovac. Add water, thyme, a bit of salt and cook for 60 minutes at 60°C/140°F. Pan-fry the rest of the chard in some beurre noisette, place on a plate with the stems, then divide the brains in small portions and season with fleur de sel. Pour the sauce on the plate. Garnish with mustard flowers and ground ivy, and finish with a few drops of argan oil.
Blend the olives with the olive oil until smooth and use it to marinate the veal. Vacuum pack the meat and cook sous vide in warm water at 58°C/135°F and fry on both sides before serving. Beat the egg whites with the powdered egg white and add the malted flour. Spread on parchment paper and dry overnight at 40°C/105°F. Hold the aubergine over a flame on the stove until blackened and cooked. Remove the stem and grind the flesh to a pulp. Add oil and butter and mix. Then rub through a sieve. Caramelise the garlic cloves and garlic flowers in butter. Put the aubergine puree on the plate with the meat, the garlic and the meringue
Marinate the veal brisket in beer for 24 hours. Vacuum pack and cook sous vide in warm water for 36 hours at 67°C/152°F. For the galangal puree, dice the onions and heat in a pan with the lemon balm, galangal and ginger. Cover with water, seal with parchment and simmer for 30-40 minutes. Blend until smooth, then add the coriander and a few drops of lemon juice. Season to taste, rub through a sieve and put to one side. For the carrot puree, cut the greens off the carrots and save for the emulsion. Finely chop the carrot and steam for 15-20 minutes. Once done, mix with the orange juice, vanilla and salt. Mix again, rub through a sieve and put to one side. Mix the carrot tops with the hot bouillon and butter, strain and emulsify before serving. Fry the brisket on both sides until it is cooked to the level you want it. Place the galangal puree in the centre of the plate and dress with the sliced veal brisket. Add the carrot puree and finish with the emulsion.
800g veal brisket, 1l brown beer, 16 carrots.
For the carrot puree
200g carrots, 50g orange juice, 1/4 vanilla pod, 20g salted butter.
For the galangal puree
100g onion, 10g galangal, 1 sprig of lemon balm, 2g ginger, 1 sprig of coriander, lemon juice.
For the carrot emulsion
100g vegetable broth, 30g beurre noisette, carrot tops.