It is certainly fair to say that things are changing in Italy when it comes to cooking. In contrast to all of the culinary traditions of the past, there is an avant-garde movement evolving under the leadership of Gualtiero Marchesi, and in Milan, Carlo Cracco is setting the pace. He used to work in France with Alain Ducasse and Alain Senderens, and was awarded three stars in Florence in 1983, where he had opened his own restaurant next to the famous cathedral Duomo. Carlo’s culinary style consists of revising Milanese cuisine with a helping of humour. Of course he also like to use veal. “We only work with the Fassone Piedmontese breed because its veal is very tender. Good veal like this should ideally be eaten raw. And especially the Fassone calf has its own definite structure and pronounced flavour. This is an elegant meat.”
Process the bread into a fine powder using a Thermoblender. Cut some baking parchment into rectangles that are 8 x 5 cm. Loosely whisk the eggs and then pull one side of each piece of paper through the egg mixture. Pull them through the breadcrumbs, and then through the eggs and the breadcrumbs for a second time. Deep-fry them in clarified butter until golden brown and then carefully remove the paper. Cut the fried crusts into clean and tidy rectangles. Season these, and the slices of veal, with salt and pepper. Arrange on a plate and finish with lemon zest and olive oil.
Finely chop the capers and soak them in water to make the jus. Rub them through a sieve and bring the liquid to the boil with the agar-agar. Allow to set in the fridge. Next, use a food processor for beating the mixture with the soy sauce and the wasabi to get a nice gel. For the salted lemon, cut the lemon into quarters, sprinkle the inside with salt and sugar, and vacuum pack with the sugar water. Cook sous vide in warm water for 2 hours at 65°C/150°F. Remove from the bag, drain well and press through a tamis with the peel to create a paste. For the mayonnaise, beat the paste in the food processor with both of the olive oils and season to taste. Cut the raw meat lengthwise, brush with the veal jus and season with salt and pepper. Pipe the mayonnaise and the jus here and there and garnish with deep-fried capers.
4 slices of veal rump (50g each), deep-fried capers, veal jus reduced with lemon juice.
For the capers juice
125g water, 50g capers, 17g soy sauce, 2g wasabi, 2g agar-agar.
For the salted lemon
3 lemons, 50g salt, 75g sugar, sugar syrup (50ml water and 250g sugar).
For the salted lemon mayonnaise
150g salted lemon paste, 250g sunflower oil, 50g sesame oil.
For the dough, mix the ingredients in a food processor using the dough blade. Allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes then roll out into thin sheets. For the filling, bring salted water to the boil, add the sliced vegetables, pepper and the tongue, and simmer for 3 hours. Leave it to cool in the liquid, peel the tongue and grind the meat twice using a meat grinder. Season with salt and pepper, and add the jus. Fill a piping bag and put to one side. For the mayonnaise, finely chop the parsley, whisk it with the oil and then rub it through a fine-mesh sieve. Beat the egg in the food processor, add the salt and the parsley juice, and then thicken it with the oil and pour it into a squeezable bottle. Cut the lemon into quarters, sprinkle the insides with salt and sugar and vacuum pack with the sugar water. Cook sous vide in warm water for 2 hours at 65°C/150°F and set to one side. Cut the circles (3 cm in diameter) out of the pasta dough; pipe some filling on to them with a dot of parsley mayonnaise, and cover with a new round of dough. Press the rounds tightly together and cook for a few minutes in salted water before serving. Coat lightly with olive oil and arrange the ravioli on the plate. Garnish with the finely-chopped, salted lemon peel and the chopped cumin seeds.
50g roasted cumin seeds.
For the ravioli dough
500g flour (T45), 175g flour (T55), 68g water, 68g olive oil, 6 egg yolks, 3 eggs, 6g salt.
For the filling
1 veal tongue (approx. 500g), 2 sticks of celery, 3 large carrots, 1 onion, 4 white pepper corns, 90g veal jus.
For the parsley mayonnaise
500ml sunflower oil, 1 bunch of parsley, 50g egg, 3g salt, 1 dstspn centrifuged parsley juice.
For the salted lemon
3 lemons, 50g salt, 75g sugar, sugar syrup (50ml water + 250g sugar).